Uto Peak - Southwest Ridge, August 2006
Uto Peak as seen from camp below the Uto - Sir Donald Col with SW Ridge at right.

With poor weather forecast for the Mt. Robson area during the first-half of our 10-day trip through Southwestern Canada, we made a course correction for Rogers Pass with the intention of redeeming ourselves on Sir Donaldís Northwest Ridge. Despite marginal, albeit inaccurate weather forecasts (this time better than worse), we climbed Uto and 95% of Sir Donald the following day.

Utoís Southwest Ridge was a fine warm-up and introduction to Sir Don. Just some short low-5th steps interspersed with enjoyable sections of 3rd and 4th class sections - a fun, solid and quick afternoon ramble. Opting for the recommended Northwest Ridge descent, we made one steep rappel (class 3 my ass!) then scrambled mostly loose and somewhat exposed 3rd-class terrain to reach a low saddle above camp. If nothing else, this descent offers an excellent perspective on Sir Donaldís Northwest Ridge. But, donít look to long for it is very intimidating from that angle! (Photos: EH, SV)

To skip to the Sir Donald report - click here.

Click thumbnails below to enlarge...
Sergio, low on route
Yours truly, climbing low on the route.
Eric in blocky terrain
Eric takes over lead and enters blocky terrain.
Eric, higher on route
Eric climbs the upper Southwest Ridge.
Final pitch to summit
Following up easier terrain just below the summit.
Closeup of Sir Don's NW Ridge
Closeup of Sir Donald's Northwest Ridge from summit of Uto with a party of two on descent about two thirds of the way down the ridge.
Preparing to rap down NW Ridge
Eric prepares to rappel down Uto's Northwest Ridge with Avalanche Glacier below and Rogers Group peaks in background.

Continue to the Sir Donald report - click here.
        | close page |                                                                                                          Last Updated: Oct. 13, 2006 | ©2002 - 2007 sverdina.com