Last Updated: September 17, 2023



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  • Caltha Peak - hike/scramble (September 2022)
  • Beauty Peak - hike/scramble (September 2022)
  • Markhor-Needle Traverse & Flatiron - hike/scramble (September 2022)
  • Conway Peak - hike/scramble (September 2022)
  • Green Mountain/Pk 2200 - hike/scramble (September 2022)
  • Mount Brew (Whistler) - hike/scramble (September 2022)
  • Mount Barbour - hike/scramble (October 2022)
  • Mount Gillespie - hike/scramble (October 2022)
  • Cougar Mountain - hike/scramble (October 2022)
  • Barn Bluff (Red Wing, MN) - hike/scramble (October 2022)
  • Mount Steele - hike/snowshoe (November 2022)
  • American Mountain (attempt), Hunter Lookout - hike/snowshoe (November 2022)
  • Belcarra Mountain - hike/scramble (November 2022)
  • Oyster Dome - hike/scramble (November 2022)
  • Mount Thom & Cilliwack Mountain/Hillkeep - hike/scramble (December 2022)
  • Frenchman Mountain (Las Vegas, NV) - hike/scramble (January 2023)
  • Rolley Peak/Lookout - hike/scramble (January 2023)
  • Round Mountain - ski tour (February 2023)
  • Blowdown Peak - ski tour (February 2023)
  • Silverdaisy Mountain - ski tour (March 2023)
  • Spearhead Glacier/Husume Coulior - ski tour (March 2023)
  • Cowboy Ridge/Peak 2026 - ski tour (April 2023)
  • Slahanay Peak - hike/scramble (April 2023)
  • American Mountain & Mount Lincoln - hike/snowshoe (May 2023)
  • Mount Mclean Attempt, Red Rock Trail, Dragons Back Trail - hike/scramble (May 2023)
  • Stawamus Chief (South, Middle & North) - hike/scramble (June 2023)
  • Flint & Feather - hike/scramble (June 2023)
  • Goat Ridge (Squamish) - hike/scramble (June 2023)
  • Grouty/Mortar Peaks - hike/scramble (June 2023)
  • Pebble-to-North Creek Traverse incl. Pebble, Thiassi, Wesley & Sugus - hike/scramble (July 2023)
  • Mount Truax - hike/scramble (July 2023)
  • Blackcomb Buttress - rock climb (July 2023)
  • Whitecap Peak - hike/scramble (July 2023)
  • Mount Hanover - hike/scramble (August 2023)
  • The "Long Traverse" incl. Long, Tynemouth, Arrowhead, Tabletop & Anemone - hike/scramble (August 2023)
  • Armchair Traverse - hike/scramble (August 2023)
  • Snowspider Mountain - hike/scramble (September 2023)
  • Mount Trorey - hike/scramble (September 2023)
  • Macleod Peak - hike/scramble (September 2023)
  • Ben Lomond - hike/scramble (September 2023)
  • Mount Killam & Gambier Island - hike/scramble (September 2023)

*As of 09/24/2023


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| Featured Trip Report |



Last Updated: Jan. 25, 2003

Guye Peak - South Gully/South Spur, January 2003



Rather than join the mob on Chair Peak, Paul and I decided on climbing the less technical though still enjoyable South Rib of Guye Peak. We picked up John Mefford in North Bend and continued on our way to Snoqualmie Pass. We made every attempt to shorten our climbing approach as much as possible by driving upwards through the winter chalet community at the foot of the mountain. We parked at a large snowplowed clearing below Guye's West Face (ignoring the obvious no-parking signs) and prepared for the short hike up to the base of the South Rib. We climbed upwards on frozen avalanche debris before traversing right through timber below the Southwest Face.

We intended to climb the South Rib route but wound up starting one gully too far east. Also, the sparse snow coverage on the rocky South Rib did not look particularly inviting. I led the first few hundred feet of the snowy/icy gully (class 3/4 mixed climbing with good stemming) until just before the gully narrowed at an overhanging boulder/chockstone at about 4,400ft. Paul then took the lead and attempted to surmount this overhang, but could not due to lack of snow. A 45-degree ramp to the left (west) looked feasible, so Paul climbed up the 50 feet up to the top of this ramp (loose snow over slabby rock...yikes!), but the ramp cliffed out on the left and became a class 5 wall on the right. He wisely dared not to do the necessary class 5.xxx traverse with crampons on (no place to put the downhill foot). Paul then looked over to the east and saw an open-timbered slope that would be easy to use to get 200 feet higher up. He bailed on the 5th class stuff and downclimbed uneasily back to the gully so we could get over to the timbered slope.

Paul then ascended the slope until it steepened whereupon he made for a big tree to make an anchor. I brought up the rear in this open-timbered section. From there, John led the rest of the way to the summit and down the other side. The gully he started out in was the same gully that we had begun the climb in lower down. It's a good thing Paul was not able to get over the overhang in the gully to continue in it, because it was much harder climbing unseen in there. We basically circumvented the worst part of this gully by going out into the timbered slope to the right. We saw plenty of rappel slings on the way up, so we must have been someplace right.

Including about an hour wasting time routefinding near the overhang, the climb took 1 hour to get from car to gully mouth then four hours to the top. From the true summit, it was easy to get back to the Cave Ridge saddle. At each sub-summit impediment, we descended rightward (eastward) around it and climbed up the next available gully to the ridge crest. Do not go to the west side of the sub-summits. In two more hours we were at the Alpental parking lot. I bummed a ride to retrieve my car and shortly thereafter we were at the lodge having a quaff.

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