Last Updated: April 6, 2020


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Cascade Range - Washington & British Columbia:

Mount Aix - Mount Aix Trail, October 2013 (Great fall hike!)

Argonaut Peak - Northeast Gully, May 2004 (Colchuk Peak also)

Azurite Peak - std. via Azurite Pass, August 2012 (Going off-route helped avoid loose gully)

Banshee Peak - via Panhandle Gap, June 2014 (En route to Cowlitz Chimney)

Mount Baring - Northwest Ridge, October 2003 (Easy half-day trip)

Big Four Mountain - Dry Creek, June 2006 (Impassible rock in upper-Amphitheater)

Big Kangaroo - Various, March 2014 (Heli-ski from 4 separate LZ's on Kangaroo Ridge)

Big Snagtooth - Amy's Bowl, March 2014 (Heli-ski from saddle just south of summit)

Mount Bigelow - Horsehead Pass, October 2012 (MTB ride crossing pass just south of summit)

Bonanza Peak - Mary Green Glacier, July 2003 (A classic 9000'er)

Bryan Butte - "Endless Basin", December 2002 (Consolation prize for missing Bigelow)

Burgundy Spire - North Face, July 2007 (Bailed due to loose rock)
Burgundy Spire - North Face, September 2011 (Plus Paisano Pinnacle)

Buck Mountain - West Route, August 2011 (Solo scramble from Trinity)

Burroughs Mountain - Burroughs Mtn Trail, October 2014 (Dayhike from Sunrise)

Cadet Peak - North Face (attempt), November 2001 (Horrible brush beyond Goat Lake)

Cardinal Peak - West Route (std), June 2014 (Day trip w/ bike approach)

Cashmere Mountain - Cashmere Mountain, July 2012 (Fun day-trip for the rain weary)

The Castle - South Face, February 2003 (Climb and snowboard descent)

Cathedral Peak - Southeast Buttress, September 2012 (Classic rock climb in Pasayten Wilderness)

Chair Peak - Northeast Buttress, January 2003 (Marginal 'ice' conditions)

Chalangin Peak - East Ridge, August 2013 (Part of DaKobed Traverse)

Mount Chaval - West Face, August 2011 (Pleasant day trip)

Mount Cheam - Mount Cheam Trail, October 2019 (Fresh snow and whiteout!)

Chimney Rock - East Face Direct, July 2004 (Crown jewels of greater Snoqualmie Pass area)

Chiwawa Mountain - Lyman Glacier, August 2001 (First and last climb with Nick Rhodes)

Church Mountain - Church Mtn. Trail, June 2016 (With injured ankle ligament)

Clark Mountain - Walrus Glacier, June 2003 (Out of time - too much for a day trip)
Clark Mountain - Southeast Route, July 2008 (1.25 day solo trip)

Colchuck Peak - North Buttress Couloir, April 2003 (Long day, bad sunburn)
Colchuck Peak - South Slopes, May 2004 (via Argonaut)

Coleman Pinnacle - Southwest Ridge, Feb. 2004 (Ski/Split tour - video)

Columbia Peak - West Spur, October 2004 (A climb in the rain with Phil Fortier)

Coquihalla Mountain - East - West Ridge Traverse, June 2019 (Great early season scramble)

Courtney Peak - Southeast Ridge, September 2015 (And Star Peak)

Cowlitz Chimney (Main) - South Route, June 2014 (Fun outing on NE side of MRNP)

Crater Mountain - South Spur, September 2015 (Great autumn day trip!)

Mount Curtis Gilbert - Conrad/Meade Glacier, Nov. 2004 (Early season Goat Rocks tour)

Cutthroat Peak - South(east) Buttress, September 2003 (Descent via West Ridge)

Mount Daniel - East Peak, August 2000 (Snow slog with Chris Rose)
Mount Daniel - (true) West Summit, June 2013 (Lynch Glacier ski)

Del Campo Peak - Gothic Basin, November 2001 (Exploratory snowshoe hike)
Del Campo Peak - South Face, October 2006 (Plus Gothic Peak)

Dome Peak - Dome Glacier, Aug/Sept. 2002 (Long haul, poor vis)
Dome Peak - Dome Glacier, July 2005 (Finish to Ptarmigan Traverse)

Dragontail Peak - Colchuck Glacier, July 2001 (Because it was raining at Paradise the day before)
Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloirs, April 2003 (Classic snow and ice climb in the Enchantments)
Dragontail Peak - Serpentine Arete, September 2011 (End-of season finale)

Dumbell Mountain - South Face, June 2013 (First party of the season)

East Wilmans Spire - South Face, September 2003 (First alpine rock climb with James Cunningham)

Elk & Thurston Mtn (BC) - Elk Mountain Trail, September 2017 (Popular Chilliwack area hike with great views)

Mount Fernow - Southwest Route, May 2015 (Inaugural climb of 2015 season )

Mount Formidable - South Route, July 2005 (First peak bagged on Ptarmigan Traverse)

Fortress Mountain - East Ridge, July 2012 (Traverse w/ South Slope descent)

Gardner Mountain - Gardner Glacier, March 2014 (Heli-ski from saddle just SE of summit)

Mount Garfield - South Route, August 2005 (Not so dangerous enigma)

Gothic Peak - West Ridge, October 2006 (And Del Campo Peak)

Granite Mountain - Granite Mountain Trail, July 2001 (After-work hike with Chris)

Graybeard Peak - West Ridge, June 2009 (Because Tom forgot rock shoes)

Grimface Mountain - Matriarch-Macabre-Grimface Traverse, July 2008 (Classic traverse in Cathedral Park)

Gunn Peak - East Peak, April 2004 (Not quite the summit, but close enough)

Guye Peak - South Gully, January 2003 (Easy Winter climb)
Guye Peak - Improbable Traverse, October 2004 (And Lundin Peak)

Hadley Peak - West Face via Skyline/Chowder Ridge, October 2015 (Unbeatable scenery)

Mount Hinman - Southwest Ridge, August 2013 (Helicopter rescue by King County Sheriff!)

Mount Index (North Peak) - North Face, August 2005 (A LONG day)

Ingalls Peak - South Ridge, June 2002 (First rock climb with Tom Sjolseth)

Jack Mountain - South Face, September 2002 (Possible new approach route)

Kaleetan Peak - East Face, October 2008 (Easy Autumn scramble)

Kangaroo Temple - North Face, September 2002 (Avoided Northwest Face due to other parties)

Kendall Peak - North Ridge, February 2013 (Summit ski plus Left Twin)

Klone Peak - North Tommy Trail, June 2014 (Mountain bike loop in N. Fork Entiat Valley)

Kololo Peaks- Suiattle Glacier (Via Glacier Peak)

Kyes Peak - South Ridge, August 2002 (Solo outing to Blanca Lake and beyond)

La Bohn Peak - East Route, August 2013 (And Mount Hinman)

Mount Lago - South Face/South Ridge, August 2014 (Tour de Lago!)

Mount Larrabee - West Ridge, September 2009 (Poor substitution for American Border Pk.)

Lemah Mountain - Lemah Glacier, July 2004 (Consolation prize for not attempting Chimney Rock)

Liberty Bell - Beckey Route, July 2002 (First alpine rock climb with Agata)

Little Bald Mountain - Little Bald Trail, June 2012 (Mountain bike ride near Chinook Pass)

Luahna Peak - East Ridge, August 2013 (Part of DaKobed Traverse)

Lundin Peak - West Ridge, Oct. 2004 (Via Guye Peak)

Macabre Tower - Matriarch-Macabre-Grimface Traverse, July 2008 (Classic traverse in Cathedral Park)

Mailbox Peak - Mailbox Peak Trail, June 2001 (After-work hike with Chris and co.)

Martin Peak (Chelan) - Horsehead Pass, October 2012 (MTB ride crossing over pass just north of summit)

Mount Mastiff - via Merritt Lake, July 2010 (Hike w/ Ozzie)

Matriarch Mountain - Matriarch-Macabre-Grimface Traverse, July 2008 (Classic traverse in Cathedral Park)

Mount Maude - South Shoulder, July 2001 (And Seven Fingered Jack)
Mount Maude - North Face, June 2005 (Second North Face attempt)

McClellan Butte - North Couloir, May 2002 (Fun winter climb with Scott Harder and others)
McClellan Butte - McClellan Butte Trail, November 2014 (Fun fall hike and short scramble)

Miller Peak - Miller Peak Trail, October 2010 (Mountain bike loop near Cle Elum)

Monte Cristo Peak - Glacier Basin, September 2001 (Turned back due to late season conditions)
Monte Cristo Peak - North Col Rte, June 2004 (Suntan on summit)

Morning Star Peak - Stillaguamish Headwaters, December 2004 (Stymied by deep snow)

Mutton Mountain - West Ridge, October 2015 (Noble Knob-Dalles Ridge mountain bike ride)

Navaho Peak - Navaho Peak Trail, May 2015 (Tagged as part of Stafford Creek mtb ride)

Needle Peak - West Ridge, May 2018 (Great Spring conditioning scramble!)

Noble Knob - Noble Knob Trail, October 2015 (Noble Knob-Dalles Ridge mountain bike ride)

Observation Rock - North Face, October 2002 (Autumn ice climb in Mount Rainier National Park)

Paisano Pinnacle - West Ridge, September 2011 (Plus Burgundy Spire)

Mount Phelps - South Route, June 2004 (Desperate to get out and climb something)

Mount Pilchuck - Standard Route, June 2011 (Afternoon ski tour)

Prusik Peak - West Ridge, October 2002 (Classic late season rock climb)

Mount Pugh - Northwest Ridge, November 2002 (Scramble with Jerry Sanchez and Scott Harder)

Mount Rexford - Ensawkwatch Enchainment, September 2007 (Plus North and South Nesawkwatch Spires)

Reynolds Peak - NW Ridge of N & S Summit, July 2005 (Previous attempt thwarted by forest fires)

Mount Robinson - Southeast Ridge, July 2011 (Jewel of the Methow!)

Sauk Mountain - Sauk Mountain Trail, October 2006 (Hiking with hangover)

Sentinel Peak - Southwest Route, July 2005 (Second of three peaks bagged during Ptarmigan Traverse)

Seven Fingered Jack - Southwest Slope (And Mount Maude)

Sherpa Peak - West Ridge, August 2002 (Rock climb with Dan and Tom Sjolseth)

Mount Si - Mount Si Trail, June 2004 (Nothing better to do)

Silver Star Mountain - Silver Star Glacier, June 2001 (Solo)

Slate Peak - Slate Pk Lookout, August 2012 (Return from MT, final photo)

Sloan Peak - Corkscrew Rte (via Bedal Basin), Aug. 2003 (Bailed on West Face route)

Snowking Mountain - Kindy Ridge, November 2002 (Approach not suitable for lowered VW Golf)

South Early Winter Spire - Southwest Buttress, August 2005 (Unintentionally bypassed 5.8 handcrack)

Sperry Peak - South Ridge, October 2007 (A casual autumn ridge ramble)

Spontaneity Arete - Le Petit Cheval, July 2010 (Friendly route with Agata)

Star Peak - Southwest Ridge, September 2015 (Highpoint of Sawtooth Ridge!)

Mount Stuart - Cascadian Couloir, July 2001 (Big day)
Mount Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier, June 2004 (Calving seracs)
Mount Stuart - North Ridge, July 2005 (Classic climb with Martin Cash)

Sun Top Mountain - Sun Top Road, September 2012 (Mountain Bike ride off of hwy 410)

Switchback Peak - Angels Staircase, October 2012 (MTB ride crossing ridge just south of summit)

Tenpeak Mountain - East Face, August 2013 (Part of DaKobed Traverse)

Mount Thomson - West Ridge, July 2003 (Super secret shortcut)

Three Fingers - South Peak, October 2001 (Solo)

The Tooth - South Ridge, June 2002 (First alpine rock climb with Andy Ball)
The Tooth - Northeast Slab, February 2006 (Turned around about a pitch from the summit)

Tomyhoi Peak - Yellow Aster Meadows, August 2003 (Short climb with great views)

Tower Mountain - West Gully, July 2009 (Swamp Creek approach)

Tupshin Peak - East Face, June 2015 (Float plane to Stehekin!)

Twin Sisters - West Ridge North Twin, Northeast Ridge South Twin, July 2006 (Fun loop in Twin Sisters Range)

Unicorn Peak - Std (via Snow Lakes), June 2014 (Short spring day trip)

Vesper Peak - North Face, September 2002 (Ledge bypass to avoid glacier)

Welch Peak - South Ridge, September 2006 (Solo, after visiting uncle at Harrison)

Whistler Mountain - North Ridge, July 2014 (Fun exposed scramble with very short approach)

Whitehorse Mountain - Northwest Shoulder, November 2000 (Wallowing in snow to not quite reach the summit)
Whitehorse Mountain - Whitehorse Glacier, June 2006 (A bit late in the season for this route)

White Chuck Mountain - Northwest Route, June 2006 (Consolation prize for bailing on Northeast Ridge)

Winchester Mountain - Winchester Mountain Trail, August 2010 (Second and last ABP attempt)

Windy Peak - South Slopes, February 2002 (First and last BOEALPS outing)

Yak Peak - Normal Route, October 2017 (Steep Autumn hike with excellent views)

Cascade Range - North Cascades National Park:

Austera Peak - Austera Ridge, April 2004 (Part of Inspiration-Klawatti icecap traverse)

Bacon Peak - via Watson Lakes, June 2015 (Noisy Creek with Diobsud Lakes return)

Black Peak - South Route, September 2002 (Consolation prize for bailing on NE Ridge)
Black Peak - Northeast Ridge, October 2003 (A fun Fall day trip)

Mount Blum - West Face, October 2006 (Consolation prize for scrapping North Ridge attempt)

Boston Basin - Boston Basin Trail, July 2007 (Attempt at East Ridge of Forbidden)

Buckner Mountain - North Face, July 2002 (Via summit of Sahale Peak)

Cascade Pass - Cascade Pass Trail, September 2003 (Hike with Agata, Mom and Dad)

Mount Challenger - Wiley Ridge, August 2003 (A classic Pickets odyssey)

Corteo Peak - Southwest Ridge, June 2009 (Down East Face)

Mount Despair - East Ridge, July 2011 (Fred's FIRST first ascent!)

Dorado Needle - Northwest Ridge, July 2007 (Consolation prize for bailing from Southwest Buttress)

Eldorado Peak - East Ridge, September 2001 (Consolation prize for not attempting Austera Peak)
Eldorado Peak - Northeast Face, March 2005 (Consolation prize for not attempting Dorado Needle)

Fisher Peak - West Ridge, September 2015 (Classic scramble from Silent Lakes)

Forbidden Peak - West Ridge, July 2002 (One of the 50 Classics with Andy Ball and Tom Sjolseth)
Forbidden Peak - East Ridge, July 2008 (Awesome climb with Eli Rosenberg)
Forbidden Peak - West Ridge, July 2013 (Torment-Forbidden Traverse!)

Frisco Mountain - North Ridge, September 2014 (Instead of Bacon Peak)

Mount Fury - Southeast Glacier, August 2006 (Three times a charm)

Mount Goode - Northeast Buttress, July 2003 (Unplanned bivy at 8000ft)

Hozomeen Mountain (North Peak) - NNE Ridge, July 2013 (no blowdown on Skyline II Trail)

Icy Peak - North Route (SE Peak), June 2013 (via Ruth Mountain)

Johannesburg Mountain - Northeast Buttress, August 2011 (A LONG time coming!)

Klawatti Peak - South Face, April 2004 (Part of Inspiration-Klawatti icecap traverse)

Mount Logan - Douglas Glacier, June 2006 (Huge avalanche buried notorious brush on approach)

Luna Peak - Southwest Ridge, August 2005 (Rained out on Fury attempt the following day)

Magic Mountain - South Ridge, August 2008 (Pathetic attempt at J-burg's East Ridge)

McGregor Mountain - McGregor Mountain Trail, July 2015 (Missed boat thanks to Chelan Man)

McGregor BM - Rainbow Lake Trail, September 2014 (Attempt on Mount McGregor)

Mesahchie Peak - North Ridge, June 2005 (Classic line on tallest peak of Ragged Ridge)

Primus Peak - Southwest Face, April 2004 (Part of Inspiration-Klawatti icecap traverse)

Mount Redoubt - Redoubt Glacier, August 2003 (And Mount Spickard)

Ruth Mountain - Ruth Glacier, February 2003 (Mid-winter ski!)

Ruth Mountain, February 2003

I was in need of some good quality snow, better than that encountered on my recent descent from The Castle. I was to be pleasantly surprized. The snow was probably the best that I've ridden this season, and that home-made splitboard of mine really does work well. Like the previous outing on The Castle, Paul and I also welcomed the idea of visiting a corner of the Cascades where we had not yet ventured. For Jerry, on the other hand, this would be his fourth trip to Ruth Mountain. Thankfully, the weather proved to be remarkably sunny and calm and the views promised to be nothing short of spectacular. Be sure to bring lots of film, batteries, or a high capacity memory card when climbing Ruth Mountain!

We were able to drive within less than half a mile from the Hannegan Pass trailhead in a VW Golf--a testament to the unusual absence of snow in the lower elevations, courtesy of El Nino. Paul started out the approach on AT gear he had borrowed from me, while Jerry after some struggling with his Silvretta bindings, managed to damage them beyond repair and had to then resort to using snowshoes (which he never ended up wearing). Later, Paul generously offered the skis to Jerry as the absence of snow on the trail, particularly in the trees, made for tedious travel.

Jerry and I would take our skis on and off countless times to pass through bare spots in the trail. I eventually just carried mine by hand until I couldn't hold them any longer. We finally reached the open glades below Hannegan Pass where travel on skis was finally possible. At the pass, Paul took the snowshoes that Jerry had been carrying on his pack up until this point and decided that he would not continue with us to the summit of Ruth Mountain. The snow had become quite deep and travel without skis would be strenuous and time consuming. Instead, Paul opted to climb up to neighboring Hannegan Peak while Jerry and I began skinning up the steep slope above Hannegan Pass towards Ruth Mountain.

Jerry and I reached a saddle to the left of a craggy hump in the ridge extending from the Ruth Glacier. A short, sun-bathed descent took us to another saddle directly below the North Face of Ruth Mountain. Jerry shot ahead of me and made short work of the ascent of Ruth Glacier. Flailing some distance behind, I finally reached the a notch below the summit, put on my jacket and assembled my splitboard for the descent. I was snapping off photos at the notch, when Jerry skied back down to where I was and encouraged me to make the final steps to the summit. How could I refuse? Together, we postholed up the summit ridge to the true summit a short distance beyond.

The ride back down from the notch to the saddle was magic. After a short traverse back to the lower saddle, Jerry and I were rewarded with another nice descent to Hannegan Pass. Jerry and I re-joined Paul back at Hannegan Pass and together we hiked the remaining four or five miles back to the trailhead. We easily found our way back to the car by moonlight, spirits refreshed by wicked good turns and first-class summit views. I'll be back for sure.

click here for photos.
Ruth Mountain - Ruth Glacier, June 2013 (And Icy Peak)

Sahale Peak - Quien Sabe Glacier, June 2000 (Vehicle troubles almost killed this trip)
Sahale Peak - Sahale Arm, July 2002 (Climbed en route to North Face of Mount Buckner)

Mount Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier, October 2001 (Failed attempt with Andy Ball)
Mount Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys, June 2002 (Lost in the fog)
Mount Shuksan - North Face, July 2002 (Brushy nightmare and slippery heather)
Mount Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys, August 2002 (Classic line on a classic peak)

Snowfield Peak - Neve Glacier, Nov/Dec. 2002 (Winter climb with Paul Klenke)

Mount Spickard - South Ridge, August 2003 (And Mount Redoubt)

Mount Terror - West Ridge, July 2006 (Disorderly conduct)

Mount Torment - South Ridge, July 2013 (Torment-Forbidden Traverse!)

The Triad - East Ridge (middle summit), Sept. 2004 (Two dicks on three dicks)

Tricouni Peak - West Gully, April 2004 (Part of Inspiration-Klawatti icecap traverse)

Mount Triumph - Northeast Ridge, September 2003 (Classic climb with Paul Klenke and Eric Hoffman)

West McMillan Spire - West Ridge, September 2004 (Classic Southern Pickets scramble)

Canadian Rockies (including Columbia Mountains):

Mount Assiniboine - North Ridge, August 2009 (Classic route on tallest peak in southern Canadian Rockies)

Mount Athabasca - Silverhorn, August 2006 (Classic snow and ice climb off of Icefields Parkway)

Bugaboo Spire - Kain Route (South Ridge), August 2004 (A Bugaboo classic)

Mount Edith Cavell - East Ridge West Ridge, August 2009 (Not the classic East Ridge, but...)

Pigeon Spire - West Ridge, August 2015 (World's best 5.4?)

Mount Robson - Provincial Park, August 2006 (Mount Robson reconnaissance)

Mount Sir Donald - Northwest Ridge, August 2004 (turned back due to late start and slick lichen)
Mount Sir Donald - Northwest Ridge, August 2006 (turned back just below summit due to fresh snow)

Mount Temple - Southwest Ridge, August 2015 (Classic Lake Louise scramble)

Uto Peak - Southwest Ridge, August 2006 (Good warm up for Sir Donald)

Wapta Traverse - Bow Lk. to WLL, March 2006 (Classic hut-to-hut ski traverse)

Coast Mountains of British Columbia:

Alpha Mountain - East Ridge, August 2008 (A Tantalus classic)

Mount Aragorn - South Route, August 2018 (And Mount Gandalf!)

Mount Ashlu - East Ridge, August 2008 (First in a 2-week climbing spree)

Mount Beautiful - Swan Falls Loop Trail, October 2019 (Buntzen Lake area loop hike)

Birkenhead Peak - Microwave Ridge, June 2019 (An "Ultra" daytrip!)

The Black Tusk - South Route (via Taylor Meadows), June 2018 ("Landing place of thunderbird")

Brandywine Mountain - South Route, June 2018 (Short early season scramble)

Mount Benvolio - Diavolo Glacier, April 2004 (Classic summit along Spearhead Traverse)

Blackcomb Peak - Northwest Ridge, June 2019 (Easy day from top of 7th Heaven chair)

Blanca Peak - South Ridge, August 2019 (High value scramble off Elaho Main)

Brunswick Mountain - Brunswick Mtn Trail, October 2015 (Day trip from Lions Bay)

Mount Burwell - via Seymour Valley, August 2019 (And Coliseum!)

Mount Callaghan - West Route, July 2019 (Callaghan Valley explorations)

Cassiope Peak - West Ridge, July 2019 (And Saxifrage Mountain)

Castle Towers Mountain - West Peak, August 2019 (Solo via Helm Glacier)

Cayoosh Mountain - South Ridge, July 2018 (Exciting scramble and long-ish day trip from Vancouver)

Chehalis Range - Statlu Lakes, September 2007 (Attempt at Vienese-Clark Traverse)

Cirque Peak - North Ridge, August 2009 (Loose!!)

Crown Mountain - Crown Mtn Trail, October 2013 (Short drive, short approach, big views, via Dam Mtn)

Mount Currie - North Glacier, January 2017 (Heli skiing from Curry and Hibachi!)

Cypress Peak - North Ridge, July 2018 (Classic North Ridge scramble)

Decker Mountain - Decker Glacier, April 2009 (Ski tour from Blackcomb)

Dickson Peak - South Ridge, July 2019 (First peak in South Chilcotins!)

Dreadnought Mountain - South Ridge, October 2018 (Highest in Watersprite Lake Group)

Face Mountain - East Route, July 2010 (Consolation prize for Mt. Samson climb)

Fissile Peak - South Ridge, October 2019 (Instead of Overlord Mountain)

Fuscian Peak - NNE Ridge, July 2018 (After Helm Peak & instead of Castle Towers)

Mount Gandalf - South Route, August 2018 (And Mount Aragorn!)

Mount Garibaldi - Northeast Face, June 2002 (Lost my skis)

Goat Mountain - Goat Ridge Trail, June 2019 (Short scramble from Grouse Mtn.)

Goat Peak - East Ridge, October 2018 (And Tenquille Mountain)

Gotcha Peak - via Blowdown Pass, August 2019 (And Gott!)

Gott Peak - via Blowdown Pass, August 2019 (And Gotcha!)

Mount Harvey - Southwest Ridge, November 2018 (Fall hike from Lions Bay)

Helm Peak - South Ridge, July 2018 (Instead of Castle Towers)

Joffre Peak - Southeast Face, September 2012 (Solo via decommissioned Cerise Creek Road)

Locomotive Mountain - South Ridge, August 2019 (Instead of Beaujolais and Mystery)

Mount Marriott - Southeast Ridge, July 2018 (Long SE Ridge via Wendy Thompson Hut)

Mount Matier - NE Spur, June 2004 (Too mushy for Northwest Face)

North Ear - Panorama Ridge, July 2006 (Day trip from North Vancouver)

Overlord Mountain - West Ridge, August 2019 (Classic climb over Musical Bumps and beyond)

Overseer Mountain - Southeast Face, August 2009 (Crown jewels of Pemby Icefield)

Powder Mountain - Powder Mountain Icefield, March 2009 (First time riding with Whistler Heli!)

Rainbow Mountain - Rainbow Mtn. Icefield, March 2009 (Final run of first trip with Whistler Heli)

Recourse Peak - ESE Ridge, July 2018 (In lieu of Mount Clarke)

The Ripsaw - ENE Ridge, April 2004 (Short detour along Spearhead Traverse)

Saxifrage Mountain - Southeast Ridge, July 2019 (And Cassiope Peak)

Serratus Mountain - North Face, August 2008 (Easy day from Haberl Hut)

Mount Seymour - Standard Rte, January 2002 (Chairlifts help with the approach)
Mount Seymour - Mount Seymour Trail, October 2015 (Scattered ashes of Dyce the dog)

Sky Pilot Mountain - West Ridge, July 2014 (Approach via new Sea to Sky Gondola!)

Mount Sloan - Northeast Ridge, Sept. 2008 (Solo!)

Mount Strachan - Christmas Gully, July 2018 (Loop hike via Cypress Mountain ski area)

The Spearhead - Blackcomb Glacier, January 2019 (En route to Corona Bowl)

Spearhead Traverse - Blackcomb to Whistler, April 2004 (Classic Coast Range ski traverse)

Statimcets Peak - Southeast Face, August 2019 (Rain, whiteout, snow and sunshine all in same day!)

Mount Tantalus - North Ridge, July 2009 (Close but no cigar!)

Tenquille Mountain - East Ridge, October 2018 (And Goat Peak)

Tricouni Peak - Tricoini Peak, June 2018 (Classic scramble on Squamish-Cheakamus divide)

Tszil Mountain - Tszil-Taylor Col, July 2019 (Backed of Slalok West Ridge)

Mount Vayu - Northwest Ridge, August 2011 (Fun Bridge Creek area ridge ramble)

Mount Weart - Southeast Ridge, July 2018 (A Whistler area classic!)

Wedge Mountain - Wedge Couloir, May 2003 (Should have climbed the Northeast Arete instead)

West Lion - South Route, October 2009 (Gorgeous day!)

Whirlwind Peak - North Route, April 2004 (Final summit of Spearhead Traverse)
Whirlwind Peak - North Route, May 2019 (And Fissile!)

Whistler, Piccolo, Flute, Oboe - Snowboarding late 90's to present (See Photo Albums & Random Blog Posts)

Olympic Mountains:

Mount Anderson - East Ridge (West Peak), July 2009 (and Mt. Anderson proper)

Mount Angeles - Route 1, October 2014 (via Klahhane Ridge)

The Brothers - South Face, November 2001 (Second time's a charm)

Buckhorn Mountain - Big Quilcene Trail, July 2016 (Neat ridge trail over tundra-like terrain)

Mount Carrie - South Route, July 2014 (Highest in Bailey Range)

Mount Constance - West Arete, September 2005 (Classic Olympic rock climb)

Mount Cruiser - South Corner, September 2013 (via Mildred Lakes)

Mount Deception - Gilhooley Saddle, July 2009 (Day trip from Seattle)

Mount Olympus - Blue Glacier, August 2003 (Crown jewels of the Olympic Mountains)

Mount Skokomish - Southeast Route, September 2013 (and Mount Stone)

Mount Stone - West Ridge, September 2013 (and Mount Skokomish)

Mount Washington - Winter Direct, April 2007 (Wallowfest)
Mount Washington - Southeast Ridge, June 2007 (Loose)

Volcanoes and Volcanic Areas of the West:

Mount Adams (WA) - Adams Glacier, July 2004 (Classic north-facing glacier route)
Mount Adams (WA) - Southwest Chutes, July 2010 (Excellent Spring ski!)

Mount Baker (WA) - Easton Glacier, September 2001 (First climb with Andy Ball)
Mount Baker (WA) - North Ridge, June 2003 (Long day with nice ski/board descent)
Mount Baker (WA) - Watson's Traverse, May 2013 (Coleman-Demming up, Park down)

Crater Lake (OR) - South to North, June 2010 (Scenery only)

Craters of the Moon (ID) - August 2010, Report/Photos

Craters of the Moon

Craters of the Moon, to me at least, seems to be a relatively unknown and underappreciated National Monument tucked away in south-central Idaho. I happened upon the monument only after my folks visited there earlier in the spring and suggested that I go have a look for myself. Being that I was en route from Jackson Wyoming, following a climb of Grand Teton to climb Mount Borah (the tallest peak in ID), I naturally found myself driving Idaho's scenic State Route 20 (aka Goodale's Cutoff) towards the town of Arco. For those of you unaware, Arco holds the proud distinction of being the first town in the US to be totally electrified by nuclear power. In fact numerous atomic research facilities dot the desert landscape east of town, all of which bear some resemblance to the much-maligned Hanford site near Washington's Tri-Cities.

A short distance southwest of Arco lies the Craters of the Moon National Monument. Where better to burn an afternoon sightseeing, resting-up and camping the night prior to a Mt. Borah climb? Craters itself is unique in that it reminded me very much of the moonscape-like lava fields on Hawaii's Big Island. Honestly, where else on the mainland do you see such things? From caving in frigid lava tubes, hiking the rim of a long extinct cinder cone, to wandering across a vast and ancient lava flow, it is safe to say that I was pleasantly surprised by what Craters has to offer. Oh, and best of all the monument is not overrun by tourists like the uber-popular National Park a few hours to the northeast!

Click here for photos.
(Wandering about a volcanic marvel)

Dee Wright Observatory (OR) - September 2019, Report/Photos (Lava Fields at summit of McKenzie Pass)

Mount Garibaldi (BC) - Northeast Face, June 2002 (Lost my skis)

Glacier Peak (WA) - Sitkum Glacier, Summer 1998 (Snowboard descent)
Glacier Peak (WA) - Frostbite Ridge, August 2007 (North-South traverse)

Mount Hood (OR) - Palmer Glacier, March 2002 (First climb in Oregon)
Mount Hood (OR) - Reid Glacier Headwall, March 2005 (Instead of Sandy Headwall)

Mount Jefferson (OR) - Jefferson Park Glacier, May 2007 (Weather slow to improve and late start)
Mount Jefferson (OR) - Milk Creek West Ridge, June 2008 (Wet, warm and sloppy)

Lassen Peak (CA) - North Face, June 2010 (Great run, short day)

Lava Lands (OR) - September 2019, Report/Photos (Lava Butte, Trail of Molten Land)

Little Tahoma (WA) - Fryingpan Glacier, June 2008 (Turned-around on Whitman Glacier)
Little Tahoma (WA) - Fryingpan Glacier, June 2011 (Snowboard descent)

Mount McLoughlin (OR) - Mt. McLoughlin Trail, June 2010 (Boring)

Middle Sister (OR) - Middle Sister, June 2008 (Only bagged one of three)

Newberry Volcano (OR) - June 2010,

Newberry Volcano

With an afternoon to burn following my climbing and splitboarding adventures on Mount Shasta, Lassen Peak and Mount McLoughlin, I decided to check out Newberry National Volcanic Monument. Being that I was passing through the area after visiting Crater Lake and with plans for a climb and ski descent of the South Sister the next day, exploring yet another volcanic remnant in a state so totally dominated by volcanism seemed like the logical thing to do.

The road leading up to Paulina Peak wasn't plowed yet so there'd be no gazing down onto the crater from above on this visit. However, exploring the Big Obsidian Flow was an unexpected treat and is probably the highlight of the National Monument. If you happen to be in the area, a side trip to visit this relatively unknown National Monument is well worth your time.

Click here for photos.
September 2019 (Big Obsidian Flow, Paulina Peak)

South Sister (OR) - South Side, June 2010 (Great ski summit!)

Mount Thielsen (OR) - West Ridge, June 2010 (Lightning Rod of the Cascades!)

Mount Rainier (WA) - Ingraham Direct, August 1998 (Turned back by strong winds)
Mount Rainier (WA) - Disappointment Cleaver, July 1999 (Bad weather)
Mount Rainier (WA) - Tahoma Glacier, August 2000 (Turned back by altitude sickness)
Mount Rainier (WA) - Emmons Glacier, June 2001 (Turned back by weather and altitude-related issues)
Mount Rainier (WA) - Disappointment Cleaver, August 2001 (Successful climb with Ben Jones)
Mount Rainier (WA) - Liberty Ridge, June 2003 (Classic climb with Tom Sjolseth)
Mount Rainier (WA) - Fuhrer Finger, May 2009 (Snowboard descent)
Mount Rainier (WA) - Disappointment Cleaver, June 2011 (Gib Chute snowboard descent!)

Mount Saint Helens (WA) - Monitor Ridge, May 2001 (With snowboard descent)

Mount Scott (OR) - Mt. Scott Trail, September 2019 (Highest in Crater Lake National Park)

Mount Shasta (CA) - Avalanche Gulch, June 2010 (Newby central!)

Mount Washington (OR) - North Ridge, September 2019 (5th-class rock climb on a Central OR volcanic chosspile)

Yellowstone National Park (CA) - August 2010, Report/Photos

Yellowstone National Park

I made a loop through Yellowstone National Park the day following my Grand Teton climb. A lazy mid-morning start, congestion, bison-crossing backups and afternoon thundershowers all conspired to make this a day where the modus operandi was to hurry through as many attractions as possible before it got dark. I'm not sure what the big rush was to be honest, my spouse notwithstanding, it's not like I had a boss waiting for me back in Seattle. But anyway...

This is my second visit to the park, now as an adult rather than the prepubescent teen standing next to me. Was he just a reflection of my earlier self, hoping like everyone else to start capturing Old Faithful on video moments before its orgasmic climax? In any case, there's certainly a lot to see and learn here in this grandiose and volatile land, but the volume of human traffic circulating through the park is almost too much for me to bear. Below are a few snaps of Yellowstone's popular attractions taken during my rushed one-day loop through the park.

click here for photos.
(After Grand Teton climb, click here.)

Other US and International (also see volcanoes):

A Most Excellent Adventure (Various) - Western States, Aug/Sep 2016 (OR, CA, AZ, UT, CO, WY, MT)

Angels Landing (UT) - Angels Landing Trail, August 2016 (Zion National Park)

Avalanche Peak (WY) - Avalanche Peak Trail (Best view of Yellowstone...arguably)

Bear Creek Spire (CA) - West Route, September 2019 (Striking peak at head of Little Lakes Valley)

Blanca Peak & Ellingwood Point (CO) - via Como Lake, September 2018 (Highest summit of the Sangre de Cristo Range)

Borah Peak (ID) - Southwest Ridge, August 2010 (The top of Idaho!)

Cathedral Peak (CA) - Southeast Buttress, September 2008 (Tuolumne Meadows classic)

Chimney Rock (ID) - West Face, August 2008 (Thunderstorms)

Mount Cleveland (MT) - Stoney Indian Route, August 2012 (Top of GNP!)

Mount Conness (CA) - North Ridge, September 2008 (Lightheaded - 12,590ft!)

DECALIBRON (CO) - DEmocrat, CAmeron, LIncoln & BRoss (Four 14ers in one day!)

Mount Elbert (CO) - Northeast Ridge, September 2018 (Highest point in Colorado)

Gannett Peak (WY) - Gooseneck Ridge (standard), August 2011 (Top of Wyoming)

Glacier National Park (MT) - Glacier and Waterton NP, August 2012 (3 of 6 10k'ers!)

Glacier National Park (Part 2) - Kintla and Stimson, August 2014 (2 more of the 6 10k'ers)

Glacier National Park (Part 3) - Mount Merritt, August 2015 (Final 10k'er in GNP!)

Grand Teton (WY) - Upper Exum Ridge, August 2010 (A great climb of The GRAND!)

Granite Peak (MT) - South face (via East Ridge), July 2011 (Top of Montana)

Half Dome (CA) - Cable Route, August 1996 (Fatboy goes to CA)

He Devil (ID) - Northwest Ridge, July 2012 (Highest in Seven Devils...maybe)

High Sierra 2010 (CA) - Lyell, Ritter, Sill & Whitney (Parent blog post with links to reports)

Hunting State Highpoints (MT & WY) - Granit & Gannett (Parent blog post with links to reports)

Mount Jackson (MT) - Northeast Ridge, August 2012 (Smoky day trip)

Kings Peak (UT) - Henry's Fork (via Anderson Pass), August 2013 (Top of Utah!)

Kintla Peak (MT) - South Ridge (via Akokala Lake), August 2014 (Third tallest in Glacier NP)

Krakatoa (Indonesia) - Sunda Straits (Indonesia), 1992 (High school field trip)

Mount Lamarck (CA) - Southeast Route, August 2018 (Instead of Mount Drawin)

Longs Peak (CO) - Keyhole Route, September 2016 (Rocky Mountain National Park)

Mount Lyell (CA) - Lyell Glacier, July 2010 (Highest in Yosemite)

Matterhorn (OR) - North Ridge, July 2012 (and Sacajawea!)

Mount Merritt (MT) - Old Sun Glacier, August 2015 (Final 10k'er in GNP!)

Moro Rock (CA) - Moro Rock Stairway, August 2016 (Sequoia National Park)

North Maroon (CO) - Northeast Ridge, September 2016 (Failed attempt)

Pikes Peak (CO) - Cog Railway, September 2016 (Worlds 5th highest railway by elevation)

Mount Regan (ID) - Southeast Ridge, September 2010 (First scramble in Sawtooths)

Mount Ritter (CA) - Southeast Glacier, July 2010 (Most prominent in High Sierra?)

Road Trip 2018 (CA, CO & more) - Colorado Rockies via Eastern Sierra, August/September 2019 (Peak bagging!)

Road Trip 2019 (OR & CA) - Central OR & Eastern Sierra, September 2019 (High winds!)

Ryan Mountain (CA) - Ryan Mountain Trail, August 2016 (Joshua Tree National Park)

Sacajawea Peak (OR) - South Ridge, July 2012 (and Matterhorn!)

Sawtooth Scrambles (ID) - Regan & Thompson, September/October 2010 (Parent blog post with links to reports)

Mount Sill (CA) - North Coulior/NW Face, July 2010 (Best summit view in High Sierra?)

Mount Siyeh (MT) - South Slope, August 2012 (Big Choss, Big Views!)

Mount Sneffels (CO) - Southwest Ridge, September 2016 (CO's "best and most beautiful" mountain)

Mount Stimson (MT) - Southeast Spur, August 2014 (Second tallest in Glacier NP)

Steptoe Butte (WA) - Drive-up Natural Monument, August 2010 (Outstanding Palouse panorama - scroll to bottom)

Mount Swinica (Poland) - Tatras (Poland), July 2001 (Day hike from Zakopane)

Mount Tamalpais (CA) - East Peak, August 2016 (Great view overlooking San Francisco bay area)

Tenaya Peak (CA) - South(west) Ridge, September 2008 (Scramble with great views)

Thompson Peak (ID) - South Coulior, October 2010 (Highest in Sawtooths!)

Mount Timpanogos (UT) - Timpooneke Trail, August 2013 (Number 20 of the 35 Great Peaks of the Continent)

Uncompahgre Peak (CO) - Uncompahgre Peak Trail, September 2018 (Tallest in the San Juan Mountains)

Utah Peakbaging (UT) - Timpanogos & Kings, August 2013 (Parent blog post with links to reports)

Mount Washburn (WY) - Mount Washburn Trail, September 2016 (Yellowstone National Park)

Wheeler Peak (NV) - Wheeler Peak Trail, August 2018 (Crown jewel of Great Basin National Park)

White Mountain Peak (CA) - White Mountain Peak Trail, September 2019 (Ultra-prominence peak in White Mountains)

Mount Whitney (CA) - Mountaineer's Route, July 2010 (Finale to a great week in the High Sierra)

Yosemite National Park (CA) - September 2008, Report/Photos

Yosemite National Park

Agata and I fled the onset of the autumnal Seattle rains for the greener pastures, or more appropriately, meadows of Northern California. We flew in to San Francisco and spent the rest of the day and part of the following day visiting various local tourist attractions before embarking on the 4 - 5 hour drive east to Yosemite. Continuing with the tourist theme the next morning, we gawked at the usual suspects in Yosemite Valley and lunched at Glacier Point before making our way over to Tuolumne Meadows later that afternoon. We spent the rest of the week, despite reservations, sleeping on dirt, climbing, scrambling and generally soaking in the unusual and sublime beauty this land of granitic domes has to offer. By the time Agata's mattress popped (we fixed it), we finally became acclimated to living at or above 8500 feet and waking-up to 25-degree mornings. With the sheer number of quality climbs, reliable autumn weather and relatively inexpensive SEA-SFO flights however, a return visit or two is definitely warranted!

What follows is a collection of photos from various stages of our California trip - from SF, to Yos and back to Seattle.

click here for photos.
(A week in the High Country!)

Rock and Ice (by location):

Banks Lake - 2010 (Climbing in the 'desert' near Grand Coulee Dam)
    Darrington - 2005 - 2007 (An unlikely oasis of granite tucked away in one of WA's wettest areas, gear)
    Eerie (Mt.) - 2004 - 2005 (Anacortes area cragging with great views of the North Sound, bolts and gear)
    Exit 38 - 2002 - 2008 (North Bend area cragging, close to Seattle, great for training, mostly sport)
    Index - 2002 (Stout gear climbs on quality granite in Skykomish River Valley)
    Leavenworth - 2002 - 2009 (Endless possibilities & better weather, sport and gear)
    Lighthouse Park - 2006 (Top-roping at tidewater near West Vancouver, BC)
    Mazama - 2002 - 2007, 7/2010, 8/2010 (Methow Valley cragging and sport climbing)
    Squamish - 2003 - 2008 (Cragging and sport climbing on The Chief, Smoke Bluffs and various other areas)
    Tieton - 2007 (Vertical gear climbs on Basalt Columns near Naches, WA)
    Vantage - 2002 - 2003 (Sport climbs on Basalt Columns at Frenchman's Coulee)

    Alpental ice, March 2002 (Ice cragging near top of Armstrong Express chairlift at Alpental Ski Area)
    Big Four Ice Caves, December 2001 (Swinging the tools at the base of Big Four's North Face)
    Mount Baker ice cragging, November 2002 (Climbing seracs in Coleman Glacier icefall)
    Gray Falls, December 2009 (Multi-pitch waterfall ice climb in Ingalls Creek Valley)
    Observation Rock - North Face, October 2002 (Autumn ice climb in Mount Rainier National Park)

Lake Garibaldi, July 2000 (Hike and camp in Garibaldi Provincial Park)
    Lake Chelan & Stehikin, August 2000 (Weekend of hiking and sightseeing near Stehikin)
    Mailbox Peak, June 2001 (After-work hike near North Bend)
    Granite Mountain Lookout, July 2001 (After-work hike near Snoqualmie Pass)
    Melakwa Lake, Various (Popular Denny Creek hike near Snoqualmie Pass)
    Cape Flattery, August 2004 (Exploring NW tip of Olympic Peninsula)
    Mount Si, June 2004 (Popular hike near North Bend)
    Sauk Mountain, October 2006 (Short hike near Darrington)
    Winchester Mountain Lookout, August 2010 (Instead of American Border Peak)
    Steamboat Rock, September 2010 (Hike in middle of Banks Lake)
    Ozette Triangle, October 2011 (Olympic Coast loop hike near Lake Ozette)
    Shi Shi Beach, September 2011 (Classic beach hike on Olympic Coast)
    Mount Pilchuck Lookout, June 2011 (Popular hike in Snohomish County)
    Slate Peak Lookout, August 2012 (Short hike from Harts Pass)
    Artist Point, September 2012 (Hike near Mount Baker Ski Area)
    San Juan Islands, Various (Mt. Consitution, Eagle Rock, Turn Point)
    Paton's Lookout, July 2017 (Overlooking Seymour Valley/Watershed)
    Elk & Thurston Mtn,September 2017 (Popular Chilliwack area hike with great views)
    Saint Marks Summit, October 2017 (Great views overlooking Howe Sound)
    Sendero Diez Vistas, October 2017 (Buntzen Lake loop hike with views overlooking Indian Arm)
    Eagle Bluffs & Black Mtn., September 2017 (West Vancouver hike with awesome views, from Cypress Mtn.)
    Baden Powell Trail (East), Summer 2017 (Grouse Mountain to Deep Cove & Quarry Rock viewpoint)
    Baden Powell Trail (Middle), December 2018 (Grouse Mountain to Cypress)
    Baden Powell Trail (West), December 2018 (Horseshoe Bay to Eagle Bluffs, via Donut Rock)
    Murrin Park, April 2018 (Loop hike with excellent view of Howe Sound)
    Whyte Lake, May 2018 (Short West Vancouver lake hike)
    Mount Gardener, May 2018 (Hike to top of Bowen Island with stunning views!)
    Tunnel Bluffs, June 2018 (Lions Bay area hike with yet more great Howe Sound views)
    Saltspring Island, November 2018 (Mt. Maxwell, Mt. Erskine, Ruckle Park)
    Hollyburn Mountain, December 2018 (Snow hike from Cypress nordic center)
    Hope Lookout, September 2019 (Good view overlooking town of Hope, BC)
    Othello Tunnels, September 2019 (Old rail tunnels in Hope, BC)
    Abby Grind, September 2019 (The Abbotsford Grind!)
    Grouse Grind, BCMC, Flint & Feather, Various (All routes lead to Grouse Chalet)
    Seymour River, Various (Fishermans & Homestead Trails)
    Lynn Creek, Various (Headwaters, Canyon Park, Norvan Falls)
    Lynn Peak, November 2019 (Above the clouds, plus Rice Lake)
    Mount Fromme, November 2019 (Pepper's first summit!)

        *More: turns & tours, mtb, nat'l parks

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