Another summer weekend with marginal weather forecast for the west slopes, what a surprise! Wow, imagine that. What to do, what to do? No point chancing the 30% of rain on a certain Northeast Face in the Chilliwacks, eh Martin? May I suggest Washington Pass instead? Yes - a double ascent weekend, starting with a warm-up on Goat Wall's Prime Rib on Saturday followed by Burgundy Spire's North Face on Sunday. Done...sold! Um, well except we had some issues with kitty litter rock on Burgundy and felt it wise to retreat after a near-disaster with the expando-flake Martin inadvertently pulled off one of the lower pitches. Live and learn...
Some climbing notes:
P2 - there's an intermediate station right before it gets steep in case you feel inclined to break it up into two pitches. A short hike then leads to base of P3, which goes up a ramp and slabs past a rap station to a belay station on a large ledge.
Once above the roof on P4 (~5.7), continue up slabs then cross over a sharp crest/cheval and make a short down-climb to the belay station for P5.
P5 gains exposure immediately and can be linked with P6 which features a bouldery move directly up from the belay ledge (~5.8). The rest of P6 cruises up easy slabs to a belay.
From top of P6, hike up and left to the base of a steep wall. Climb a long pitch up this wall (P7, ~5.8) to an airy belay at a small ledge.
P8 makes an easy, but exposed rightward traverse to the next station.
The final pitch (P10) gains exposure right off the deck and features a couple bouldery moves to get up over the bulge (~5.8+). The key is to commit to the short, but airy traverse out left where hidden jugs are most welcome. The angle quickly eases after a move or two with the belay station lying just beyond.
In general, we found the cruxes all very well bolted. The route is equipped for single rope rappels - you can't see the station between P8 and P9 until you are on the rap. We took about a half hour on approach, about 4hrs on route and about 1hr to descend. Top it off with a refreshing dip in Methow River and dinner at Winthrop's Duck Brand for the grand finale! A big thanks to James and Josie for the room and board at their Winthrop home that night!
to view photos.