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Monday, August 9, 2010

Face Mountain (BC) - East Route, July 2010

Not even an hour into the approach, and badly blistered feet (not mine) put the kibosh on our Mount Samson climb. While the North Face would definitely have to wait for another day, the alternative south-side route also seemed too remote and isolated for me to do as solo-overnighter. My comrades, whom I’d met only hours earlier returned to Squamish leaving me to salvage the weekend with a nearby scramble of some sort. Fortunately, just a couple miles back up the forest road at Railroad Pass is the popular Semaphore Lakes trailhead. A short hike leads to a very scenic basin below the Train Glacier with peaks of the Railroad Group towering above. From a camp in the still completely snowed-in basin my plan was to climb Face Mountain the following day and return to North Vancouver later that evening.

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Spontaneity Arete - Le Petit Cheval, July 2010

As is tradition around these parts, the forecast for the July 4th long weekend called for clouds with a chance of showers. The obvious thing to do was to head east into 509 country where the odds of precipitation would be less. Jerry and Annette answered the call with an invitation to stay with them at their lovely little cabin in Mazama. While there, Agata and I preoccupied ourselves by doing a mix of mountain biking, cragging and alpine climbing. For me the highlight of the weekend was climbing Le Petit Cheval on Spontaneity Arete. I would characterize it as a ‘friendly’ route with relatively short-lived difficulties (the crux supposedly goes at 5.7). It makes for a short but fun climb ideal for marginal weather days. For approach beta and a route topo check out the North Cascades Mountain Guides homepage.

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