Last Updated: November 24, 2021


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Saturday, January 23, 2010

Dolomiti - Dec. 19 - Jan. 3

Between the 12 hours stranded in Frankfurt on the way in and the two days stranded on the way back, you'll forgive my unembellished recount of the Italy trip this time around. The stunning gross incompetence exhibited by the Frankfurt airport and Lufthansa airline staff to effectively manage the several hundred poor souls hopelessly stuck at the mercy of German inefficiency and non-hospitality is NOT something I'm liable to forget anytime soon. And why our board bag arrived three days late in Verona and seven days after we returned to Seattle still baffles me. I suppose we should be happy we got the bag back at all. In any case, I could easily dedicate this entire report to how awful the trip to and from Italy was this year, but I won't. Suffice to say that I'll never set foot in that godforsaken shithole of an airport again!


Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Gray Falls (ice climbing) - Dec. 12

Being the non-ice climber that I am, I couldn't let the mid-December cold snap slip by without so much as a swing of an ice tool or two. Ok, all jokes aside, when the snow gets so bad for sliding then it must be great for climbing, right? With that in mind, I joined Tod and JB for a day out on ice of the vertical variety. Inspired by recent reports of a newly discovered 3-tier icefall tucked 5 or 6 miles up Ingall's Creek Valley, we decided to go have a look at the so called Gray Falls for ourselves.

Saturday, January 9, 2010

Crystal b/c - Nov. 7 & 14

Did a couple tours out in the Crystal b/c when the getting was good this past autumn. Combined with a few deep weekends at Whistler late in November, it seems conditions have either been warm and wet or cold and dry (and firm) ever since. Here's to wishing that punk El Nino leaves us alone for a few months...

Crystal - Cayuse Pass loop

Union Creek/Bullion Basin

Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Scary Canary - October 11

The temperature at our trailhead bivy the night prior to our Serpentene Arete attempt was well below freezing, and remained comfortably below the 20-degree mark all that next day thanks to the arctic air which was in place over much of the state that weekend. The prospect of enduring that kind of cold on a large north-facing wall where the sun now remains absent until Spring gnawed away at my motivation throughout the approach. Unable to feel my fingers and my toes and feeling wholly unsecure scrambling along the snow-dusted ledge low on the route, I eventually decided I'd had enough. We salvaged what was left of the short day climbing Canary on Castle Rock instead. Tod did a fine lead up the first 5.8 pitch with a stout finish onto Saber Ledge. The airy and classic step off the ledge at the start of p2 really gets the blood flowing and is easily the highlight of the route. Yes, a far cry from Serpentine Arete but at least now I have something to look forward to come spring or summer this year.

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