Blackcomb Peak - Blackcomb Buttress, July 2023
Making summertime use of our Epic Pass once again, Agata and I set out for a fun day climbing Blackcomb Buttress on Blackcomb Peak. There are three buttresses (or spurs) on the SW Face of the peak, two of which are rated low fifth and typically referred to as Blackcomb Buttress. Looking up at the face from Blackcomb Lake, the spurs in question are both to the left of the one immediately adjacent to DOA Coulior. That one apparently goes at 5.7 and is appropriately named DOA Buttress. Of the two, we climbed the left-most one, which curves up and right to merge with the other buttresses at the top of a tower. Of course, all this was nearly impossible to make out in the overcast morning light and we were't sure what we were looking at until reaching the base of the route. More on that later.
Jumped on the Blackcomb Gondola about an hour or so after opening, somewhat skeptical that we'd make it back in time for the final download at 5 pm (note that 5:15 is the actual cutoff). From there we followed the Alpine Walk Trail to Overlord Trail to Lakeside Loop Trail, reaching Blackcomb Lake in good time. Looking up at our peak, the summit was in the clouds and the SW Face was shaded and featureless from our vantage point. Around the right side of the lake and then up a shitty talus slope towards what we hoped was our buttress. We knew to avoid the one to our right (DOA), and so were left to contemplate the rock face directly above us. The so-called central buttress didn't appear particularly obvious, but the spur just to the left of the final gully we had come up was quite evident and so we decided to follow it up.
Roped up at its base only to discover that I'd forgotten my belay device..uh oh! Took another look up the route: it seemed easy enough such that a hip belay would suffice for the follower. With that settled, up I go mostly scrambling with the odd 5th-ish move here and there. About 2 or 3 pitches climbing the main part of the buttress with comfortable belay ledges, great position and enough exposure to be fun but not terrifying. In hindsight, the route makes for a great scramble, depending on one's comfort level of course. Untied at a large platform just beyond the tower and scampered up easier terrain to the summit proper. Very familiar views by now, but truth be told it never gets old! Is that Mount Trorey I see just beyond Decker? Hmm...
Time as they say is 'a ticking', so down the interminable South Face talus slope into Body Bag Bowl we go before looping around back to Blackcomb Lake. We were familiar with this descent route having followed it after climbing the NW Ridge some years back, and it sucked no less than it did then! Finally, back on trail we hustled back to the gondola determined NOT to endure the hike of shame down from Rendezvous Lodge. Made it back with minutes to spare, but no overpriced apres up top for us this time. For that, it's back to the ye olde 'Gate for high fives and a couple rounds of Harp for good measure!
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