The "Long Traverse" - Long, Tynemouth, Arrowhead, Tabletop & Anemone, August 2023
Wes and I had some unfinished business to attend to in the Lizzie Lake area after rain stymied our plans for Long Peak the previous Summer. This time we upped the ante and tacked on Tynemouth Mountain, Arrowhead Mountain, Tabletop Mountain and Anemone Peak for a full-day traverse of the area. Joined by fellow BCMC'er Crystal, our itinerary called for one day approach to the Lizzie Hut, one day traverse, and the final day hike back to the trailhead. Having previously made all the way out to Caltha Peak, at the edge of the Stein Valley Heritage Provincial Park, our objective this time was to bag the main peaks in the core zone of what many refer to simply as the Lizzie Lake area. Ignoring that fact that in decades past one could practically drive to Lizzie Lake itself, the approach has thankfully seen some attention in recent times and amounts to about 9 km of relatively easy travel mainly on an old forest road. Beyond Lizzie Lake itself it is all trail for about 2.5 km to the cozy but mice-infested Lizzie Hut. Other than some particularly aggressive ground hornets, depending on the time of year of course, it's a mostly pleasant hike up to the so-called Gates of Shangri-La and the hut a short distance beyond. Nobody was there when we arrived, but we did encounter a twosome who'd just completed a circuit like ours. Andrew and partner would stay in the hut with us that night and leave the next day.
Bidding farewell to our hut mates the following morning, we set out on the path for Long Lake aiming for the Long Peak's broad NW Face. Without the fog from last year to obscure the way ahead, we easily located the rock bands and ramps mentioned in the Scrambles Guide that give access to "snowfields" on the upper part of the mountain. More of an ice remnant than a bonified snowfield nowadays and do beware the occasional refrigerator-size chunk of rock that comes tumbling down from here without warning! Skirting the very edge of what could be described as an old lateral moraine, we snuck past the firing zone and made our way on to the upper reaches of Long. Onto the summit ridge and a move or two up the small horn on the summit proper and WOO-HAA, what a view! So much here to drool over but let me simply say that Cloudraker Mountain the west and Skook Jim to the east are hard to ignore! One down and several more to go, so we didn't linger for long before descending. Back to the edge of the moraine before cutting right over an endless talus slope towards Tynemouth. Trekking poles mighty helpful on a long side-hill traverse over scree and loose blocks here. Crystal was adamant that she didn't need poles and ended up falling far behind - oh the stubbornness of youth!
Easy trek up and over Tynemouth's broad summit ridge, then back down the NE Ridge to Moraine Pass. Picturesque glacial lake here, complete with a very evidently shrinking glacier. Crystal wanted to take a swim here, so Wes and I moseyed on for a bit to give her some privacy. On the move again, we dispatched Arrowhead Mountain without much fanfare, taking countless Instagram-worthy photos of us standing on the edge of its east-facing precipice. Leaving the summit, we followed the West Ridge for a bit before descending talus slopes down towards Heart Lake. Some hemming and hawing with what to do next - do we call it or go all-in and bag Tabletop & Anemone? I was neutral, Wes was pro, and Crystal seemed undecided. This went on for a few minutes without consensus, until I proclaimed, "fuck it, let's do it!" And so, off we went, up towards the broad Tabletop-Arrowhead Pass.
We left the trail and followed the path of least resistance up Tabletop's SE Face/Ridge. Rested up top for a bit as Crystal was starting to lose steam. Impatient as always, I started down the West Ridge, the others following. Some scrambling down to the Tabletop-Anemone Saddle, then up Anemone, this time again with a bit more scrambling to reach the large summit area. Took another break on top here, despite the annoying flying ants attempting to enter every facial orifice. Probably not long enough for Crystal, but I'd had enough of the bugs and don't much care for hiking in the dark - so down we went. Cut down from the Tabletop-Anemone Saddle to intersect the main trail and followed that along Heart Lake and Arrowhead Lake. Wes took a dip here, while the rest of us enjoyed a short break before resuming the trek back to the hut. One last night listening to the mice scurry about the hut and over to tops of our sleeping bags, and it was time to go home, very satisfied with another fine adventure in the Lizzie Lake area in the bag!
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