Last Updated: July 9, 2025



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Wednesday, July 9, 2025

Gibson Peak - via Watersprite Lake, June 2024



Set out for Gibson on what proved to be a marginal weather day, consistent with what the weather forecast predicted but which we foolishly hoped wasn't accurate. Made it to the trailhead under heavily overcast skies, thinking to myself that if at least if it doesn't rain all will not be lost. Several minutes into the hike, it started to rain. But fortunately, it wasn't heavy rain, more a light drizzle and so we forged on. Reached Watersprite Lake in good time and thankfully by then the showers had ceased. Wes and I have both been here at least once before, myself bagging the highest in the group Dreadnought Peak back in October 2018. No rain or snow whatsoever that time, opposite to the conditions we found at present.

Snowshoes on, and around the south side of the lake we go aiming for the amphitheater cradled below Martin and Gibson peaks. There's an Epiphone Peak and Fender Peak nearby in case you were wondering about the guitar theme to the names here. Slogged up saturated snow to the Martin-Gibson Saddle and contemplated our next moves from there. Straight up from the saddle pitched up quite steeply with a rock step that looked like it might require technical climbing. No interest in experimenting with that, especially considering the conditions. Wes was all for it, but then his skill at assessing terrain and navigation leaves much to be desired. Decided to descend the opposite side of the saddle for a bit before traversing to a shoulder on the south side of Gibson. Proceeded from there soon encountering a rock rib beyond which was a vertical drop off on the peak's SE Face. Turned up along this rib, then onto a snowy bench to wrap back around to the NW Ridge, above the rock step. Short bit of steep snow from there to the summit proper.

Views were decidedly moody thanks to the dark clouds just overhead and particularly to the west. Still a respectable panorama from up there panning from south to east to north - towards the peaks flanking the east shore of Howe Sound, Sky Pilot and co., Meslilloet and Gillespie Group to the SSE, the remote ranges flanking the east shore of Pitt River to the east and NE and finally north to Dreadnought with the Mamquam Massif lurking behind. Not too shabby for an otherwise miserable day! The rain soon resumed and so we cut our stay up top short, this time opting to descend via the North Ridge towards an obvious saddle. Some steep snow here, but still very saturated and soft, making for a nice log glissade. Returned to Watersprite Lake and on towards the trailhead again under intermittent showers. The cold beer afterwards never tasted better!

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