The Old Settler - Middle Peak via North Talc Main FSR, July 2024
The Old Settler is highest peak on the Harrison-Fraser Divide and one of the more recognizable features along the east shore of Harrison Lake. It is impossible to miss from many other summits both near and far and beckons those who've laid eyes upon it to go in for a closer look. The mountain is composed of four main peaks grouped closely to each other with the tallest being the North Peak and the most frequently ascended being the Middle Peak, the latter thanks to its inclusion in the Scrambles Guide by Matt Gunn. I thought I had read somewhere that the peak is a volcanic remnant, and certainly the rock quality we experienced for most of the ascent was of the type one might expect to find on a rotten Cascades' volcano. That said, conditions improve greatly upon reaching the summit ridge and resembles the look and feel of that which is found in the Twin Sisters Range of Northwest Washington, famous for its solid and highly textured Olivine! Coincidentally, Old Settler is also well known for a handful of technical routes with reputedly sound rock, so it would appear to depend on where on the mountain one chooses to climb.
As with Mount Urquhart earlier in the Summer, this trip was made possible thanks to a recently opened gate that barred access to the trailhead for a decade or more. Same modus operandi as so many other trips in recent years; drop everything and get it while the getting is good! As of summer 2025, the gate is reported to be closed again, so bummer if you missed the party! Anyway, bearing that in mind Andrew, Finn, and I set out to capitalize on the fleeting access window and bag this icon of Southwest BC. Up some 24 kilometers along the now familiar Harrison East FSR before turning right onto North Talc Main and following it to the spur that continues a short distance into the side valley containing Daiphy Lake cradled directly beneath the peak's west and south slopes. A fallen tree stopped us short about a half kilometer from the trailhead, but despite the notorious brush the approach from here was barely over 3 kilometers to reach the lake. Spirits were high as we started up the remaining distance to the trailhead on foot.
Beyond the trailhead, the approach continues via an overgrown road as it makes a large switchback before vanishing in a thicket of alders. Flagging here coaxed us to our right for a short alder bash to reach another overgrown road now cut into the side of the slope on the north side of the creek draining the valley. Following more flagging and a worn path, we continued along the edge of this "road" to where it too disappeared, this time in a field of chest-high ferns. Only discovered upon our return, the gist here is to descend towards some alders at right, cross a minor stream and pick up yet another very overgrown road that leads east across the valley into an open forested area. Following flagging again, we crossed over the main creek branch and then proceeded up along the right (east) bank. Soon reached a sloped meadow area towards the head of the valley with a forested headwall above. Still following the occasional shag of flagging, we proceeded up into the trees for a final steep grunt up slippery duff to reach the crest overlooking Daiphy Lake. A short brushy descent from here saw us to the lake shore whereupon we finally took our first break of the day.
Looking across the lake, we could see the interminable talus slope we'd be scratching our way up next. Ugh! But first we had to contour around the lake, following the south shore until forced into thick bush up and over a cliff lest we go for a swim around it. Now onto the talus, making a rising traverse towards the bottom of an obvious sloping ramp feature that cuts across the peak's west face. Then up onto this ramp, following it back to the right towards the summit ridge. The rock here was friable and horribly unstable. While not particularly exposed, great care had to be taken not to dislodge boulders down onto each other. Reached the summit ridge just as my appetite for the shitty choss had run out. Fortunately, the remaining scramble from here to the Middle Peak summit was on solid rock and we all enjoyed working the "cruxes" first up a steep wall and finally up some steps on the blocky summit ridge. Yay, we made it! Enjoyed a nice long break up top, enjoying the view despite the haze and intermittent cloudiness swirling about us.
Inevitably our attention soon turned to the North Peak as it is impossible to miss from Middle even if it's only about 100 feet higher. Andrew and I were on the fence, having indicated even before embarking on this trip that it may not be for us. Furthermore, based on what we experienced thus far, I wasn't entirely convinced of the soundness of the rock climbing unprotected up an exposed 4th-class ridge/buttress. Finn, was all for it and so took off for the North Peak while we wallowed in our indecision. Best let the ~150 lb twentysomething boy from Vietnam with something to prove tempt fate on the North Peak by himself. Lord knows I've survived my fair share of all that! The adage about "old bold climbers" comes to mind but moving on. All made it back down to the lake limbs intact, then returned the way we came this time detouring to avoid the portion of "trail" where we were chased by ground hornets hours earlier. About 11 hours round trip with about :30 spent up top. Stoked to have gotten 'er done, ain't ever coming back!
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