Gimli Peak - East Face, July 2025
Went for this as a weekend smash 'n grab, having been on the list for ages. Interminably long drive via Hwy3, via Osoyoos (great views of the lake there en route) and beyond to the Slocan Valley. Ugh! Anyway, a few observations that weren't readily apparent from the reports I'd found online:
Parking - It's a bit of a shitshow on a busy summer weekend. The trailhead parking is sloped, making a car camp less than ideal for anyone looking for a restful night after the long drive from Vancouver. If you want to avoid the short bit of pinstriping, park down at the final switchback—it only adds about five minutes of hiking. The road is (was?) otherwise in decent shape, and I'd dare say a sedan could make it without too much trouble.
Approach - Avoid the temptation to follow the trail all the way to the snowfield just below the camping area. It's better to leave the trail early and traverse the open slopes to the right, minimizing the loss and regain across the large gully below the peak's prominent South Ridge. The East Ledges remain mostly hidden during the approach, with the first glimpse coming upon gaining the Gimli-Wolfs Ears saddle. Beware the large cornice overhanging the north side.
Route - A bit of a route-finding puzzle. Initially, stay left of the dark rock towers. Just beyond lies a headwall of lighter-coloured rock that looks like it might require difficult climbing. Instead, look left for a weakness that allows you to gain the top of this feature; you may need to descend a little before finding the easiest line. Easy climbing from there, staying on the crest as much as possible.
I encountered one small snow patch—maybe ten footsteps across—that was easily avoided on the return. Ice axe and crampons came along mainly as training weight. The route then angles upward through a series of pitches toward the top, where the rock turns dark again. This section is well marked with cairns and zigzags along ledges, all relatively easy. The final ledge traverses rightward and is the most exposed part of the route, though it's short-lived—somewhat reminiscent of the crux on the Joffre scramble, IMO. Suddenly you're on the large summit plateau, with the giant cairn visible just ahead and to the left.
Nobody else was on the route that day, although I encountered one party in the lower talus zone making a second attempt after failing to figure out the route the previous day. Plenty of rock climbers were also around, as one might expect.
A six(ish)-hour round-trip time reported by others is impressive! It took me a good hour or so longer, although I did traverse a little too high from the camping area and had to backtrack. Either way, a fantastic introduction to Valhalla Provincial Park!
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